Tag Archives: foraging

The Leaning Tower of Pesto (wild garlic again)

Zeb on the Wild Garlic Trail

The south-west and west of England are a good place to find wild garlic (allium ursinum) though I have seen it growing along the banks of the River Cocker in Cockermouth, tucked in the damp trough of the old Mill Race.

Mill Race At Cockermouth

If it likes a spot it will surely but slowly colonize the ground. It likes damp and it likes light dappled shade, and it comes into flower more or less as the trees start to leaf up, though you can pick the leaves much earlier in the year when it first emerges.  Once the canopy has filled out and the trees are in full leaf overhead,  the leaves shrivel and the wild garlic plants set seed and vanish for another year. You can also buy bulbs from suppliers on the internet if you want to try growing it in your garden.

Garlic Slopes

I first came across it many years ago as a student when I walked from Wooton-under-Edge to Bath on part of the Cotswold Way with two friends, much fitter and light of foot than me. It was a hot weekend and I was glad to get out of the bright sunshine in the cow pastures and bridleways and walk through a cool green wood for a time.  The pungent and distinctive smell of garlic was everywhere, starry white flowers drifting up the slopes, with bluebells and cow parsley layered in.  I remember wrinkling my nose and saying, ‘But that’s garlic!’  I think I thought then that garlic only grew in warmer Mediterranean countries.

Garlic everywhere

The memory stayed with me for many years and when I moved to Bristol eight years ago and found it growing in almost every damp woodland here I researched it, realised it was edible and now pick some every year to use in my cooking. It has become very trendy and fashionable and is sold at farmers’ markets in London and around the country.

 If you were in one of these woods in January you wouldn’t really believe that come May they can be carpeted with garlic, I reckon it is one of the safer plants for the beginner to pick and eat as the smell of the leaves is so distinctive, having said that bluebells and anenomes are poisonous so do make sure that you can distinguish between them. I have read also that some people confuse lily of the valley with wild garlic. I have never seen them growing together here, but again it is worth bearing in mind. I have some older posts on this blog with close up photos but if you search internet images you should find many photos and descriptions to help you. It is worth noting that the plants do vary in size. The ones we picked yesterday were very big and tall, but the ones I see more locally are shorter and smaller.

one last pic of the wild garlicThe plants die back in the summer and all that are left are the bulbs hidden underground till next year, so it really is very seasonal.

I haven’t picked much this year, just one lot that I used in the semolina bun bread last month and at the weekend on our walk I thought I would grab a dog bag’s worth and make some pesto to put in the freezer as the ‘season’ is almost over.

Wild Garlic Pesto

I can tell you what I did and what I put in it, but I haven’t got really good quantiities for you as I made it by eye and taste.  Pesto is one of those Humpty Dumpty words these days as people seem to put what they like in it, some people leave the cheese out altogether, some people add lemon,  but it is a convenient word so I use it here.

Leaning Tower of Pesto

  • A well packed doggy bag of garlic leaves, flowers and buds, probably 500g or so
  • About 200 g of finely ground Pecorino hard cheese ( a sheep’s milk cheese with a strong taste which I prefer to Parmesan)
  • About 150 g of coarsely ground hazelnuts, I like it a bit chunky! It seems a waste to put expensive pine nuts in there as the garlic taste is so strong I don’t think you would be able to taste the pine nuts to be honest.
  • salt to taste
  • Good olive oil or cold pressed rapeseed oil to blend

IMG_1740IMG_1743

We put the garlic in the food processor and added olive oil until the leaves were chopped up, then added the other ingredients and held back on the oil to make a thick creamy paste. I don’t like pesto when it it very oily.

I then spooned it into little 2.5 cm tubs and put them in the freezer. I have read that some people freeze them in ice cube trays and then pop them out and store them that way, but it is one more process and I am a lazy person!

I had held back a handful of leaves and Brian made this wonderful dish which we had for supper with the Black Badger peas that I had cooked a few weeks back and frozen.

The Black Badgers have quite coarse skins but these seem to have softened up in the process of being frozen and defrosted and I think they are fantastic.

Brian came up with this which reminded me of really good hippy food from the 1970s and 80s -think Cranks, and Food For Thought and the Hare Krishna restaurant on Soho Square. We ate them with a piece of Cumberland sausage and some pita bread and some steamed purple sprouting broccoli.

Black Badgers with Wild Garlic and Pecorino and Parsley

Brian’s Hippy Cheesy Garliccy Black Badger Peas

  • 250g of well cooked  British Black Badger Peas (bought from Hodmedods)
  • One Medium Onion finely sliced
  • A handful of wild garlic leaves and flowers chopped lightly
  • ½ teaspoon of cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon mixed spice
  • water
  • 100 – 150 g of left over grated Pecorino cheese
  • a handful of roughly chopped flat leaf parsley to finish
  1. On a low heat in a good heavy pan
  2. Sweat the onion in 2 tbps of butter and  a slosh of olive oil till translucent and soft
  3. Add the chopped garlic leaves and stir for a minute or two
  4. Add the Black Badgers to the pan
  5. Sprinkle the spices in and stir well
  6. Add 2 – 3 tablespoons of water to this to stop the BB’s catching on the bottom of the pan
  7. Cover with lid and check from time to time that there is liquid in the pan, top up if necessary, but you only want enough to stop them sticking, not swimming!
  8. Grill your sausage and steam your purple sprouting broccoli for extra vegetabley goodness
  9. Bake your flat breads – I made pita once more, such fun making pita bread so any excuse!
  10. Before you serve, take the pan off the heat add the grated Pecorino and stir in, put the lid back on and leave to melt in and through the dish.

 If you can’t get Black Badgers, you could make something similar with locally grown peas or beans.  They are full of good fibre and protein and often overlooked in favour of perky fresh vegetable;  we lived on dried pulses in years past in this country, survived on them through the winter and the hungry gap when the new crops hadn’t come through yet.

What were the traditional winter foods where you live – before the days of freezers and 24 hour everything available all the time shops?

Wild Garlic Season

For Mitchdafish

In the Wild Food section (see the black menu bar at the top of the blog) I’ve created an information page about Wild Garlic; it also gives links to various posts I wrote last year about this wonderful plant.  I hope it is helpful. Please let me know if there is anything else I can add to it. You can click here to go straight to the page.

Wild garlic makes the most wonderful pesto by the way. I whizzed some together recently with a mixture of basil leaves, fresh garlic leaves, Millstone sheep’s milk cheese from North Wootton Dairy (Bristol Slow Food Market),  pine nuts and olive oil.

Use it in sandwiches and on pasta, stir it into anything that you think might benefit. Just delicious!

What are your favourite garlic recipes? I have fond memories of picking olives in Crete and eating cold lentils strewn with fresh chopped garlic at lunchtime. I had to drop that habit when I came back to England though as no one would speak to me!

North Wooton Dairy Millstone Sheeps Cheese

North Wootton Dairy Millstone Sheeps Cheese

The Larch Boletus

When I lived in London,  I used to pick a lot of wild mushrooms, the parks, and the Surrey woodlands were full of them.

My mother was good on identification, my aunts and uncles too, the knowledge passed on from one generation to another, backed up by books and photos.  I have some, not altogether reassuring, memories of my female relatives arguing over a particularly luridly coloured specimen, saying,

‘Of course, this is a good one! ’

and then to my horror, chewing little bits and pulling faces and spitting them out….

…anyway, all I can say is that no one died and no one got ill, though I have met plenty of people who claim to know someone who knows someone who died of eating mushrooms.  Of course,  there are headline grabbing deadly mushrooms, like the Destroying Angel – what a name!  And there are mushrooms that will make you very sick and people do die from eating them every year. You can look up the statistics on these things, though what they don’t say is how many people safely and responsibly pick wild mushrooms each year.

If you want to pick mushrooms you need to find someone to show you which ones are good and far more importantly which ones are bad and also which ones have look-alikes that can be confused. You need to read, study, and observe. There are maybe a dozen ‘good’ mushrooms that I am certain of;  any I don’t know I leave them where they grow.  There are books, on-line resources, fungi groups, all sorts of places to find out more.  Take your time and do your homework.

In some European countries you can take your mushrooms to be identified by an expert before eating them, as far as I know we don’t have that service here.

A few days ago walking the dogs in a glade of larches, we found these little beauties, called larch boletus or sulleius grevellei …… They only grow under larch trees; hence the name. Of course other fungi grow under larch trees, so you need to know the other characteristics of the mushroom as well.  We picked a pound of them and took them home, where I cleaned them up, double checked my identification with Roger Phillips  and various other reliable references and made duxelles with them as in Antonio Carluccio’s A Passion for Mushrooms.

Duxelles are a very simple way to store and freeze all mushrooms: slice some onions, fry them gently, add a little nutmeg if you like it and then add the cleaned and sliced mushrooms and cook them gently. Once the liquid has evaporated, you let them cool down and then either chop them finely and freeze in an ice cube tray so you can pop them in a bag and use them to enrich soups and stews, or just freeze them as they are. Some mushrooms dry well or can be pickled but Carluccio doesn’t recommend that for the larch boletus. This mushroom is good, but not one of the greats like porcini or morels!

So I put some in the freezer for a risotto in a few weeks time, and kept a few to go with our dinner adding a little garlic, lemon juice, parsley and cream. The sweet and earthy aroma of these mushrooms is like nothing else….together with a few of our tender garden charlotte potatoes, a piece of locally raised sirloin steak from Cotswold Edge Farm,  some bright and joyful english runner beans. That was a great supper!

Do you have any special dishes you like to make with mushrooms?

Wild Garlic update…

Lynne has sent me this great pic of her wild garlic spaghetti dish!

Wild garlic pesto spaghetti, roasted vegetables and parma ham by Lynne

She makes the pesto with no cheese…

take a few handfuls of wild garlic, a handful of pan roasted almonds, juice and rind of 2 lemons and a glug of olive oil and a teaspoon of salt…pulverize to within an inch of its life in the processor (otherwise it seems to be just too fiery) and keep in jar in the fridge.  Very hard to not just keep on eating it.

It looks delicious Lynne! Thanks for sharing the recipe and your photo.

I’m going back to the woods tomorrow to get some more… When I went today I noticed it was in full flower and the air was sweet and pungent with bluebells and garlic, what a great combination, an opportunity for an enterprising perfumist or a Heston Blumenthal icecream…..

It’s all flowering now so the season will be over soon!  Gather ye garlic while ye may…if you’re not sure what it looks like, here is my best close-up shot to help.